AN UNBIASED VIEW OF SAUCE CARTS

It is solely an emulsification—egg yolks and butter Slash through with vinegar flavored with tarragon and shallots, with a Chunk of black pepper. Imagine it being a loose mayonnaise, demanding only loads of whisking and also a thorough hand with the heat to grasp. ... Apply the sauce to steaks or burgers, asparagus or salmon. — Sam Sifton, The